Something happens during the winter. Christmas is over and now all we have left is the long slog until spring. Sensory perception becomes dull. Colours seem less vibrant. The city of London turns grey. Your palette grows weary of the familiar winter flavours and you start looking around for something new. I am pleased to report that I have found it in the Dock Kitchen.
The restaurant, located in Ladbroke Grove, is Stevie Parle’s brainchild. Rather than focussing on a fixed menu, the emphasis is on changing it to what is seasonally available on top of the extremely innovative à la carte menu. The result is an eclectic and wide range of dishes, each with a surprising range of flavours.
The restaurant itself is beautiful. The Dock Kitchen overlooks the Grand Union Canal in Ladbroke Grove, showing off the London skyline with floor to ceiling windows. Inside, the wooden beamed ceiling and brick walls give the look of a trendy loft. Hanging from the wall are beautifully strange bronze orange bulb lamps, illuminating the restaurant with warm light.
Beneath the restaurant is the cocktail bar, boasting furniture from Tom Dixon’s collection of lighting and furniture. The bar is quirky to be sure. Located under the restaurant, it feels more like a trendy furniture store than a bar, especially if you are seated next to the large illuminated “FUN” sign that looks out of the window. The place has a very intimate feel, enhanced by the low ceilings and small space. The bar is also part shop, showing off Tom Dixon’s collection of lighting and furniture. While it is not the best bar in London, it is a lovely place to go for a
The wine list is very respectable, with bottles from around the world. If wine is not your thing, however, they serve pitchers of fresh squeezed lemonade, which perfectly balances the rich food in addition to being very refreshing.
Before you start your meal, you are presented with a delicious flat bread with drizzled oil and spices on top. It immediately introduces you to the unique fusion that you are about to be submerged in. Think of the most delicious naan you ever had with a spicy kick. I’m still trying to work out the combination that was used.
To start, I had the chicken livers cooked in seven spices and pomegranate molasses. For some, chicken livers may sound like a step too far, but I assure you that it is absolutely delicious. It has a very similar flavour to foie gras with a slightly firmer texture, which has led to it being dubbed the poor man’s caviar. The combination of the livers with the creamy sauce and the molasses creates an extremely rich and unusual flavour that has to be tried to be believed.
However, it is the biryani of sea bass, Dorset crab and octopus that really steals the show. The dish has the mixed feel of a paella and a light fish curry, combing the enormous flavour of a latter, with the subtle texture of the former.
In keeping with the slightly hipster theme, even the dessert menu is unusual. My personal favourite is the Stichelton, a type of unpasteurised blue cheese, whose mild flavour is a perfect finish to your meal. Think of it as a stilton for people who don’t like stilton. This is definitely a cheese to look for at cheese markets.
The Dock Kitchen has few faults, but they are weighty. Its main problem is that it is so far away. The nearest station is Kensal Green, which is admittedly only a short Tube ride away. But I fear for many that is too far to travel for a meal in a city where amazing food is everywhere. The other problem is price. While it is not particularly expensive, it is above what most students would be prepared to spend on a meal, so I suggest that you save this restaurant for a special occasion.
My favourite thing about the Dock Kitchen is the open kitchen. Rather than hiding it away at the back, like most restaurants, it is located at the centre of the restaurant for all to see. This means that you can watch your food move from preparation, to grill, to hot plate, to service, to right in front of you. You can hear the chef’s battle cry of “service and order!” Being a foodie, I naturally find cooking at a professional kitchen immensely interesting, so being able to watch your food being prepared right in front of you is a dream come true.
Rating: 4/5
Location: Portobello Docks, 344/342 Ladbroke Grove, Kensal Road, London W10
Nearest station: Kensal Green
Average price: £26–£40
Opening times: 1200–1430 and 1900–2330 Mon–Sat, 1200–1530 Sun
Website: www.dockkitchen.co.uk
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